明治22(1889)年制作の丹後ちりめんの打掛

Abstract

The present paper examines the weave formation, embroidery design, embroidery technique, and color of an uchikake (Japanese wedding robe) that was presented to Kyoto Women's University in 2008 by Shoko Inomoto, a graduate of the Department of History at the University, in view of the garment's historical value. The uchikake was made in 1889 (Meiji 22) when Ms. Inomoto's grandmother, whose family owned a wholesale cloth store that specialized in Tango chirimen (crepe silk), was married to the Inoue family, which owned a weaving factory that produced Tango chirimen. The uchikake is made of white chirimen with a complicated donsu (damask) weave pattern. The embroidery features symbols of congratulations, such as cranes and turtles, and the embroidery technique is very refined and technically advanced. The pale tones of the embroidery provide subtle contrast against the white fabric of the uchikake. Because there are no surviving embroidered white cloth garments from the Meiji period and the weave formation of the uchikake donated by Ms. Inomoto is very rare donsu (damask) chirimen, this garment is of great historical value.